Let’s get started with our pattern Este!
With Este you’ve just added a go-to wardrobe staple to your pattern collection! It’s a very versatile pattern, thanks to all the options included. You can choose between a classic shirt collar with collar stand or a fun lapel collar! The pattern also includes a long sleeve with a cuff, or a short, wide sleeve. Este has a loose fit, dropped shoulders and a pleat in the back.
You can make different versions of this shirt: with a classic shirt collar or a lapel collar; with a long or short sleeve. The different steps are explained separately for each version and are indicated with subtitles.
All versions:
Make the inverted pleat in the back. Work on the right side of the fabric. Fold the fabric on the outer markings and move them towards the center marking - the center back - right until the three markings match exactly. Pin in place and staystitch the inverted pleat at 1 cm from the edge.
Finish the pocket with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press 1 cm of the top to the wrong side. Press another 2 cm to the wrong side and stitch next to the edge. Press 1 cm of the bottom and sides to the wrong side of the pocket and pin in place or baste.
Place the top of the pocket at the two markings on the front. Pin in place or baste. Start stitching at the top and stitch the sides and the bottom, next to the edge.
Version shirt collar and collar stand:
Interface the button placket on the front: this is a strip of 6 cm wide, at 1,5 cm from the edge. (so you don’t interface the seam allowance).
Press 1,5 cm of the center front of each front to the wrong side. Then press 3 cm to the wrong side, at the foldline, and stitch in place just next to the edge. You’ve now made the button plackets.
Pin one of the back pieces to the back, right sides of the fabric together. Now pin the second back piece, with the right side of the fabric to the wrong side of the back, and stitch all layers. Press nicely.
Pin the shoulder seams of the fronts to the shoulder seams of the upper back piece, right sides of the fabric together, and stitch in place.
Roll up the back and front until they are in between the two back pieces. Pin the shoulder seams of the back pieces with the right sides of the fabric together. Stitch the shoulder seams in your first stitching. Now gently pull out the front and back and press flat.
Finish the side seams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin with the right sides of the fabric together and stitch. Press the seams open.
The interfaced part of the collar is the top collar, the under collar is not interfaced. Trim the short ends and the long outer edge of the under collar by 2 mm. Pin both collar parts right sides together and stitch all around at 1 cm seam allowance but leave the bottom seam open. Trim the corners and turn inside out. Press nicely flat and make sure the top collar slightly overlaps the under collar.
Press 1 cm of the inner collar stand, the one that’s not interfaced, to the inside. Pin the top side of the inner collar stand to the open, bottom side of the top collar, right sides of the fabric together. The markings at the top of the collar stand match the beginning and end of the collar. Now pin the interfaced outer collar stand to the under collar in the same way. Pin the curved edges of the collar stands together and stitch the top side at 1 cm seam allowance. Do not stitch the 1 centimeter seam allowance you pressed beforehand. Trim the seam allowance at the curves to reduce bulk. Turn the collar stand right side out and press.
Pin the seam of the collar, the one that hasn’t been pressed, to the neckline of the shirt, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings of the center back and shoulder seams match. Stitch at 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the collar.
Turn the collar upwards and pin the pressed seam of the collar to the inside of the neckline. All seam allowances disappear inside the collar. Trim the corners if necessary. Stitch the collar to the front just next to the edge on the collar stand, through all the layers. Press nicely flat.
Press the hem 2,5 cm to the wrong side of the fabric. Then press half of the seam allowance to the inside. Topstitch at the edge of the hem.
Make the buttonholes in the right button placket. The first buttonhole is indicated on the pattern piece, mark the other buttonholes at 8 cm distance from each other. Sew the buttons on the left button placket.
Version with lapel collar:
Pin the back piece on the back, right sides of the fabric together and stitch. Finish the seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam upwards.
Cut a strip of 3 cm off the center front of both fronts.
Finish the shoulder and side seams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin the shoulder and side seams of front and back with the right sides of the fabric together and stitch. Press the seams open.
The interfaced part of the collar is the top collar, the under collar is not interfaced. Trim the short ends and the long outer edge of the under collar by 2 mm.
Pin both collar parts right sides together and stitch all around at 1 cm seam allowance, but leave the bottom seam open. Trim the corners and turn inside out. Press nicely flat and make sure the top collar slightly overlaps the under collar.
Pin the collar to the shirt, the under collar is placed at the right side of the shirt, and stitch at 1 cm seam allowance. The beginning and end of the collar is marked at the fronts.
Overlock the shoulder seams of the front and back facing. Pin with the right sides together and stitch. Press open. Finish the long side with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Place the facing on the shirt with the right sides together and pin the hem of the front facing at the hem of the blouse. Stitch the hem in place at 1 cm. Press all seam allowances towards the hem.
Now pin the facing to the shirt. You’ll notice that the facing pulls the hem of the front 1,5 cm upwards, this will make a nice corner at the hem. Start stitching at the hem and all around to the other side. Pay attention that the seam allowance of the long side of the facing is 1,5 cm but the neckline is only 1 cm!
Trim the seam allowance of the back facing and the collar pieces and cut the corners of the facing and lapel. Now finish all seam allowances of facing and shirt together with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Stitch the seam allowances of the front and facing to the facing at 2 mm from the seam. Start as close as possible to the hem and stitch until the marking of the top button (so not all the way up to the collar). Press nicely flat.
Handstitch the shoulder seams of the facing to the blouse.
Press the hem of the shirt 1 cm to the wrong side. Then press another 1,5 cm. Stitch the hem all around, including the front facing pieces.
Make the buttonholes in the right button placket. The first buttonhole is indicated on the pattern piece, mark the other 4 buttonholes at 8 cm distance from each other. Sew the buttons on the left button placket.
Short sleeve:
Finish the side seams of the sleeves with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin and stitch the side seams, right sides together. Press open.
Press the hem of the sleeve 1 cm to the wrong side. Then press another 2 cm. Stitch the hem all around.
Long sleeve with cuff:
Cut the arm split of both sleeves at the indicated line.
Press the bias arm split in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Fold open and press half of each side lengthwise to the inside again.
Pull the arm split of the sleeve open and pin one of the long sides of the bias arm split at the arm split, right sides of the fabric together. Pin and baste in place.
Stitch in the pressed fold of the bias arm split. In the middle of the arm split, you will only get a few millimeters of the fabric of the sleeve.
Now fold the bias around the arm split, the raw edge is at the inside. Pin and baste. Stitch just next to the edge on the bias through all layers. Work on the right side of the sleeve.
Doublefold the sleeve at the arm split, with the right sides together, so both sides of the bias arm split are placed nicely together.
Stitch both pieces of the bias together at the top, diagonally from the corner to the edge.
Fold the bias arm split, located at the side of the sleeve markings, to the inside of the sleeve and stitch in place at 1 cm parallel to the hem.
Create the pleats of the sleeve. Every pleat has 2 markings. Place for every pleat one marking onto the other, and work in the direction of the arm split. Stitch in place at 1 cm parallel to the hem.
Finish the side seams of the sleeves with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin the side seam, right sides together and stitch. Press open.
Press the long side of the cuff, opposite to the side with the markings, 1,5 cm to the wrong side of the fabric.
Doublefold the cuff lengthwise with the right sides together and stitch both short sides, without stitching the pressed seam allowance (fold it open beforehand).
Trim the bottom corners and turn to the right side of the fabric. Press.
Pin the unpressed seam allowance of the cuff at the sleeve, right sides together. You start at one arm split and finish at the other. Stitch in place.
Turn the cuff in place and press all seam allowances to the inside of the cuff. Pin the cuff to the sleeve at the inside and stitch in place, just next to the edge on the cuff. Work on the right side of the sleeve.
Make the buttonholes in the cuffs at the indicated markings and sew the buttons on.
Attaching the sleeve:
Pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings match. The single marking indicates the front, the double one the back. Divide the fabric evenly between the markings of the cap of the sleeve. Baste to avoid false pleats and stitch in place. Finish the edges together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.
Give your shirt a nice press!
We wish you a lot of fun with your new shirt! Show your creation on Instagram and Facebook with the hashtag #atelierjupeEste or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’.