Great that you’re getting started with our Trixie pattern!
Just as versatile as it is cheerful, Trixie is a true must-have for your wardrobe! The crossover design adds a lovely detail to this blouse while creating an elegant V-neckline. Trixie offers three different sleeve options: a long sleeve, a short cut-on sleeve, and a fashionable gathered sleeve. This way, you can perfectly adapt the blouse to the season and make it exactly to your style! The waistband included can be used as a facing or a visible waistband, or you can make Trixie into a true wrap blouse with the fun ties!
We wish you lots of sewing fun with your new blouse!
Add a piece of iron-on interfacing of about 2 cm wide to the neckline of the front, at the wrong side of the fabric. Press the neckline 2 cm to the wrong side of the fabric. Then press half of this seam allowance to the inside. Stitch in place just next to the edge and press.
Fold one long side of the back bias tape 1 cm to the wrong side and press. Now fold the other long side over the first one so you have one long ribbon of 1 cm wide. Press. Open the back bias tape again and pin one long side to the neckline of the back, right sides of the fabric together. Stitch in place at 1 cm (this is in one of the pressed fold lines). If your bias tape surpasses your shoulder seam, it probably got stretched a bit when ironing. Cut the excess fabric.
Press the seam allowances towards the back bias tape and stitch just next to the edge, through all layers.
Cut the seam allowance carefully.
Pin the shoulder seams of front and back, right sides of the fabric together. Fold the end of the bias tape over the shoulder seam and fold the pressed seam of the bias tape back in place. Stitch the shoulder seam through all layers and finish the seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Fold the bias tape towards the inside of the back and stitch just next to the open edge. Press the shoulder seams towards the back.
Pin and stitch the side seams of front and back, right sides together.
Trim the rounded side seam under the arm. Finish the side seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the front.
Finishing with the waistband (version 1):
In this version, you can choose to leave the waistband visible or use it as a facing by folding it to the inside. If you want to keep the waistband visible, first check the back length in the table with the finished measurements to see if you might want to shorten the blouse.
Place the wrong side of the right front onto the right side of the left front, till the marking on the left front. Right and left as you would be wearing the blouse. Stitch the waist at 1 cm parallel to the edge.
Pin the front waistband on the back waistband, right sides together and stitch both short ends. Press the seams open.
Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides of the fabric together and press. Fold back open and press one of the long sides just over a centimeter to the wrong side of the fabric.
Pin the unpressed seam of the waistband at the blouse, right sides of the fabric together and stitch. Press the seam allowances towards the waistband.
Pin the waistband in place and make sure all seam allowances are inside the waistband. Finish the waistband by stitching exactly in the ditch of the waistband and the blouse. Work at the right side of the blouse.
If you use the waistband as a facing, fold it to the inside and stitch or sew in place at the side seams.
Finishing with the wrap belt (version 2):
Shorten the blouse by cutting about 2 cm off the waist.
Stitch at each short side of the back waistband a belt, right and reinforced sides of the fabrics together. Press the seams open.
Fold the belt in half lengthwise, wrong sides of the fabric together and press. Fold back open and pin at the waist of the blouse, right sides together. Make sure that the markings and side seams match. The marking on the waistband indicates the end of the fronts and takes into account the shortened version. Stitch together at front and back. Press the seam allowances towards the belt.
Pin the belts with the right sides together. Stitch the short side and long side until the marking. Trim the corners at the end of the belts and turn both belts to the right side and press.
Press just over a centimeter of the belt that is still open, to the wrong side.
Pin the belt in place and make sure all seam allowances are inside the belt. Finish the belt by stitching exactly in the ditch of the belt and the blouse. Work at the right side of the blouse.
The straight sleeve:
Finish the side seams of the sleeves with an overlock or by zigzagging and pin, right sides of the fabric together. Stitch and press open.
Press 1 cm of the hem to the wrong side. Then press another 2 cm to the wrong side and stitch just next to the edge.
Pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings match. The single marking indicates the front, the other marking halfway the sleeve indicates the shoulder seam. Baste to avoid false pleats and stitch in place. Finish the edges with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.
The short sleeve and gathered sleeve:
Press 1 cm of the armhole to the wrong side. Then press another 1 cm to the wrong side and stitch just next to the edge.
The gathered sleeve:
Press the long sides 1 cm to the wrong side and stitch right next to the fold line.
Trim the seam allowance until your stitching line.
Fold to the wrong side, just next to the stitching line. Press, but don’t stitch yet. Fold back open.
Fold 2 cm of the short sides to the right side. Then fold 1 cm of these 2 cm back so that you have three layers stacked on top of each other, as in a S-shape. The long side should remain folded open.
Stitch the folded seam allowance of the short side in place along the pre-pressed fold of the long side.
Turn to the right side of the fabric. All seam allowances of the long and short sides disappear at the inside.
Stitch the short sides along the entire length, just next to the edge.
Now also stitch the long sides, just next to the edge. Start where the stitching of the short sides ends. If you would start stitching at the edge of the fabric, you risk your sewing machine ‘eating’ the fabric.
Gather one of the long sides of the gathered sleeve. Easestitch using the largest stitch on your sewing machine at 1,5 cm from the edge. Easestitch a second time at 1 cm from the edge.
Gather the sleeve until it’s about 50 cm wide and pin at the blouse. Start at the marking on the front, near the armhole, with the wrong side of the sleeve at the right side of the blouse. Make an angle at the armhole so you can continue pinning parallel to the armhole. Pin the gathered sleeve in place just above the stitching line of the armhole. Align the marking point that indicates the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam.
Continue pinning the sleeve on the back, until the end of the armhole. Make an angle again and pin until the marking on the back. Distribute your gather evenly along the entire length. Baste the sleeve so it stays neatly in place while stitching. Stitch the sleeve to the blouse at 1 cm from the edge. Remove the gathering threads.
Give your blouse a nice press.
All done!
We wish you a lot of fun with your new blouse! Show your creation on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #atelierjupeTrixie or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’.
Got a taste for it? Have a look at www.atelierjupe.com to discover more patterns and our fabric collection.