We’re delighted to see you’re starting on your Dani jacket!
Dani will keep you cosy & warm this autumn and winter! This jacket is perfect for a nice teddy or quilted fabric! You can make Dani just the way you like it: with a zipper or button placket in contrasting fabric, and with a hood or collar. Or why not make more than just the one? Dani has a slightly oversized cut, dropped shoulders and handy pockets! This pattern is fully lined, which makes for a neat finish on the inside.
For this jacket, you have several options: with a zipper or added button placket, with a hood or collar. The different steps are explained separately for each version and are indicated with subtitles.
Version with button placket:
Cut a strip of 2,5 cm wide off:
- the center front of both fronts and the collar or hood
- the center front of the facings (front facing + collar or hood facing). Make sure to cut the correct side off the front facing!
All versions:
Pin one pocket piece at each side seam of the front and back, right sides together, and make sure the markings match. Stitch the pocket pieces in place between these markings.
Fold the pocket pieces to the side and stitch them to the seam allowances of front and back, at a few millimeters from the edge.
Pin and stitch the shoulder seams, right sides of the fabric together and press open.
Pin the side seams of the fronts to the back and make sure that the pockets are folded away from the jacket. Stitch the side seams: start at the armhole and stitch until the first marking of the pocket. Then, stitch the second part of the side seam: start at the second or the bottom marking of the pocket and stitch until the hem. Press open.
Pin a set of pocket pieces together and stitch in place. Start at the side seam and go all around the pocket until you reach the side seam again.
Pin and stitch the side seams of the sleeve, right sides of the fabric together and press open.
Pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings match. The single marking indicates the front, the double one the back. Divide the fabric evenly between the markings of the cap of the sleeve. Baste to avoid false pleats and stitch in place. Finish the edges together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.
You’re making the version with the hood? Then pin the sides of the hood to the middle hood piece, right sides of the fabric together. Stitch the long sides. Use the markings to stitch the curve neatly.
Pin the hood or the interfaced part of the collar, depending on the version you’re making, to the neckline of the jacket and make sure that the ends and the markings match. Stitch in place and press the seam open. Snip a few times in the curved seam allowance of the neckline.
Version with zipper:
Pin the left side of the zipper at 0,5 cm from the center front edge of the left front, right sides together. The zip teeth start at 1,5 cm from the top of the collar or hood (this is the seam allowance). The bottom of the zipper is at 7,5 cm from the hem. Baste in place and do the same with the right side of the zipper on the right front. Make sure that the two parts of the zipper are evenly aligned on the front pieces and that the necklines of the fronts are also still aligned. Stitch both zipper sides in place at 1,5 cm from the edge of the fronts.
Working with a teddy or bouclé fabric? Then cut some of the fluffy fabric under the zipper away, over the entire length of the center front, so the fabric becomes less bulky.
Version with button placket:
Fold the button placket in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch the short sides. Trim the corners and turn to the right side of the fabric. Press.
If you like it this way, then you can add 5 decorative stitching lines over the entire length of the button placket. Start at 0,8 cm from the outer edge of the placket and repeat at 0,8 cm until you have 5 stitching lines.
Pin a button placket to each front, right sides together. The bottom of the button placket starts at 7,5 cm from the hem and the top at 1,5 cm from the top of the collar or hood (this is the seam allowance), depending on the version you’re making. Stitch the entire length in place.
The lining for all versions:
Doublefold the lining of the back with the right sides together. Stitch 4 cm down from the marking in the back, parallel with the center back fold. Press open.
Pin the side and shoulder seams of the fronts to the back, right sides together and stitch. Press the seams open.
Pin the side seams of the sleeve lining with the right sides together and stitch. Leave an opening of approx. 20 cm in one of the seams to turn the jacket later. Press the seams open.
Pin the sleeve lining into the armhole of the jacket lining, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings match. The single marking indicates the front, the double one the back. Divide the fabric evenly between the markings of the cap of the sleeve. Baste to avoid false pleats and stitch in place. Finish the edges together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve.
Stitch at each side of the front lining a front facing piece, right sides together. Make sure to stitch the correct side of the facing to the lining: this is the longest side.
Version with hood:
Pin the sides of the hood lining to the middle hood lining piece, right sides together. Stitch the long sides. Use the markings to stitch the curve neatly.
Pin both hood facings with the right sides together and stitch the short side. Press open.
Pin and stitch the hood facing to the hood lining, right sides of the fabric together. Press the seams open.
Pin the hood lining with facing to the neckline of the jacket lining, right sides together, and make sure the center back and the markings of the shoulder seams match. Press the seams open.
Version with collar:
Pin and stitch the collar piece that isn’t interfaced to the jacket lining, right sides together and make sure the center back and the markings of the shoulder seams match.
All versions:
Pin the hem of the jacket lining and the jacket, right sides together, and stitch at 1,5 cm from the edge, over the entire length of the hem.
Now pin the rest of the jacket and jacket lining together. You’ll notice that the facing and lining pull the hem upwards. This way the zipper or button placket will be in the correct place between the layers. Now the rest of the jacket can be neatly put together. Stitch all around and make sure that you stitch in your first stitching line of the zipper or button placket.
Trim the corners of the collar or hood and the hem.
Work on the wrong side of the lining. Slip the end of the sleeve lining into the jacket sleeve to line up the hems, right sides of the fabric facing each other. Pin the hems together. Make sure the side seams match. Stitch all around at 1,5 cm.
Stitching the lining to the sleeve can be very abstract. Turn the jacket sleeve and sleeve lining to the right side and pin them together like they need to be when finished. Turn the sleeves inside out again and pin the hems together all around.
Turn the jacket to the right side through the opening in the sleeve lining. Carefully push out all corners at the collar and hem. Close the opening in the sleeve lining.
Handstitch the neckline of outer and inner collar together, or from the hood and the lining. Handstitch the hem of the sleeve and jacket together at the side seams. Attach the sleeve lining to the jacket with a few handstitches at the sleeve head and bottom of the armhole.
Version with buttons: add the press buttons where indicated on the pattern pieces.
Press carefully if necessary.
We wish you a lot of fun with your new jacket! Show your creation on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #atelierjupeDani or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’.