The Robyn wrap dress is the perfect piece for a lovely spring or summer day! Robyn is the perfect blend of a beautiful and elegant garment with plenty of comfort. The belt and delicate pleats, along with the back dart, create a flattering silhouette while still allowing for plenty of movement. The cap sleeves with trims give it a more casual look, making Robyn suitable for almost any occasion. The wrap of the skirt has a large overlap, which we can all appreciate in a wrap dress! The Robyn pattern also pairs easily with a variety of prints and plain fabrics!
We hope you enjoy making your new wrap dress!
Add a piece of iron-on interfacing of about 2 cm width to the neckline of the front, at the wrong side of the fabric. Press the neckline 2 cm to the wrong side of the fabric. Then press half of this seam allowance to the inside. Stitch in place just next to the edge and press.
Make the pleats in the front. To do this, align the two notches and markings with the right sides of the fabric together. Sew the pleats in place from the waist to the notch. Press the pleats on the inside towards the center front and stitch in place at 1 cm from the edge.
Stitch the back darts. Fold the dart in half along the central line - right sides of the fabric together - matching up the markings in the waist. Pin in place. Stitch the dart, starting from the edge of the fabric - back tack at the beginning - and towards the point of the dart. Stitch off the edge of the fabric, don’t back tack the stitching at the point. Instead, tie the threads together with a double knot. Press the dart allowance towards the center back.
Fold one long side of the back bias tape 1 cm to the wrong side and press. Now fold the other long side over the first one so you have one long ribbon of 1 cm wide. Press. Open the back bias tape again and pin one long side to the neckline of the back, right sides of the fabric together. Stitch in place at 1 cm (this is in one of the pressed fold lines). If your bias tape surpasses your shoulder seam, it probably got stretched a bit when ironing. Cut the excess fabric.
Press the seam allowances towards the back bias tape and stitch just next to the edge, through all layers. Cut the seam allowance carefully.
Pin the shoulder seams of front and back, right sides of the fabric together.
Fold the end of the bias tape over the shoulder seam and fold the pressed seam of the bias tape back in place.
Stitch the shoulder seam through all layers and finish the seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Fold the bias tape towards the inside of the back and stitch just next to the open edge. Press the shoulder seams towards the back.
Pin and stitch the side seams of front and back, right sides together. Trim the rounded side seam under the arm. Finish the side seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the front.
Fold the sleeve trims in half with the short sides together - right sides of the fabric together - and stitch the short side. Press the seam allowance open.
Press the sleeve trims in half with the wrong sides together. Fold back open and press 1 cm of one of the long sides to the wrong side. Make sure that with the other sleeve trim, you press the opposite long side, so you get the mirror image from the first one.
Pin the seam allowance of the sleeve trim, that isn’t pressed, to the armhole of the dress, right sides of the fabric together and markings matching. The markings need to match the shoulder seam and the marking on the front. Stitch and press the seam allowance towards the sleeve trim.
Now fold the sleeve trim to the inside at the foldline and pin. Stitch the sleeve trim in place by stitching exactly in the ditch of sleeve trim and dress. Work on the right side of the dress.
Fold the sleeve trim towards the shoulder and press gently. Attach it with a few stitches at the shoulder seam and below the armhole. This is optional, you can also leave the sleeve trim unfolded.
Stitch at each short side of the back waistband, a right and left front waistband, right and reinforced sides of the fabrics together. Press the seams open. Do the same for the second waistband.
Place the bodice of the dress with the right side of the fabric facing up. Pin one of the waistbands to the waist of the bodice, right sides together. The shortest part of the belt, the right waistband, is at the right of the bodice. Right and left as you would be wearing the dress. Make sure the side seams of the bodice match the side seams of the waistband, the markings on the waistband indicate the ends of the front pieces.
Now pin the other waistband to the bodice in the same way, but with the right side of the waistband on the wrong side of the bodice. Make sure that the short and long pieces of the belt match. Stitch all around, except for the part where the skirt will be stitched. Start and end at 2 cm from the bodice.
Trim the corners of the waistbands. Turn both waistbands inside out and press. Press the unstitched seam of the inner waistband 1 cm to the wrong side of the fabric.
Finish the side seams of the skirt pieces using an overlock or by zigzagging.
Press the center front of both front skirt pieces 2 cm to the wrong side of the fabric. Then press half of the seam allowance to the inside. Topstitch at the edge of the seam. Press nicely.
Pin both front skirts to the back skirt, right sides of the fabric together and stitch the side seams. Press open.
Gather the waist of the skirt. Easestitch using the largest stitch on your sewing machine at 1,5 cm from the edge. Easestitch a second time at 1 cm. Gather the fabric evenly by pulling the threads.
Place the skirt with the right side of the fabric facing up and pin the outer waistband to the skirt, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings and side seams match. Gather the fabric evenly along the waistband. Stitch in place. Press the seam allowance carefully towards the waistband.
Make an opening of about 4 cm in the right hand side seam of the waistband, through both layers. Trim the seam allowance of the bodice at the inside of the waistband.
Pin the waistband facing in place and make sure all seam allowances are inside the waistband. Finish the waistband by stitching exactly in the ditch of the outer waistband and the skirt. Start and end where you stopped stitching the waistband.
Finally, stitch around the opening you made in the right hand side seam of the waistband. Make sure the openings are nicely lined up.
Press 1 cm of the hem to the wrong side. Then press another 3 cm to the wrong side and stitch just next to the edge.
Give your dress a nice press!
All done! We wish you a lot of fun with your new dress! Show your creation on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #atelierjupeRobyn or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’.
Got a taste for it? Have a look at www.atelierjupe.com to discover more patterns and our fabric collection.