We’re so glad you’re getting started with our pattern, Lori!
Everybody loves a good blouse, and we’re happy to create just that for you!
Finish the side seams of the fronts with an overlock or by zigzagging. Place the fronts right sides together and stitch the center front at 4 cm from the edge, from the hem to the marking. Press open.
Press at each side 1 cm of the 4 cm seam allowance of the center front to the wrong side. Pin in place. Use a chalk or erasable pen to draw the stitching line just next to the pressed edge, at the inside of the front. Stitch the entire length in place at your marked line. Press.
Pin the outer front pieces at the front, right sides together. Then pin the inner front pieces with the right side at the wrong side of the front. The ends of the pieces surpass the center front with 1,5 cm. Stitch in place from the armhole to 1,5 cm from the end. Press.
Place the center front seam of the two left front pieces with the right sides together and pin in place. You’ll need to pull the fabric slightly while pinning and stitching, as the front pieces tend to pull it to the side. Start stitching at 1,5 cm from the edge (at the end of your previous stitching) and just next to the center front of the front. Trim the corners.
Press nicely and do the same for the right pieces.
Finish the center back and side seams of the back with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin and stitch the center back seams right sides together. Press open.
Version 1 with the small pleats: make the pleats in the back. Start each time at the center back to create the pleats on both sides. Place the two notches of the pleats with the right sides together and pin them in place. You can find the direction of the pleats on the pattern piece. Secure the pleats at the top, by stitching at 1 cm from the edge. We recommend leaving your pins in for now to ensure the pleats stay securely in place.
Version 2 with box pleat: for this version you’ve cut the back on the ‘cutting line version 2’. Make the box pleat in the back. Place at each side the two notches of the pleat with the right sides together and pin them in place. Secure the pleat at the top, by stitching at 1 cm from the edge.
Pin a back piece at the back, right sides together. Make sure the markings match. Stitch in place. Then pin the other back piece with the right side at the wrong side of the back and stitch in place in your first stitching. Ensure the pleats are neatly tucked in between. Press flat.
Pin the shoulder seams of the outer front and back pieces with the right sides together and stitch. Press the seams open.
Roll up the blouse/dress in between the inner front and back pieces. Pin the shoulder seams of the inner front pieces and back piece with the right sides together and stitch in place. Press the seams open. Turn the blouse/dress to the right side.
Pin the side seams of front and back with the right sides together and stitch. Press open.
Press 1 cm of the bottom seam allowance of one of the collar pieces to the wrong side. Place both collars right sides together and pin. Stitch the top and sides of the collar till 1 cm from the bottom, without stitching the pre-pressed seam allowance.
Trim the corners and make a few small snips in the seam allowance at the shoulder seam curves. Turn the collar to the right side and press. Make sure the pre-pressed centimeter of the collar stays in place.
Pin the seam of the collar, the one that hasn’t been pre-pressed, to the neckline, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings of the shoulder seams and center back match. Stitch and press the seam allowances towards the collar.
Turn the collar and pin the pre-pressed seam at the neckline. All seam allowances disappear inside the collar, as well as the corners of the seam allowance of the front. Trim them if necessary. Stitch the collar to the front by stitching exactly in the ditch of the neckline, through all layers. Make sure to work on the right side of the blouse/dress. Press nicely flat.
Finish the side seams of the sleeves with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Make the pleats in the sleeves. Start each time at the center of the sleeve to create the pleats on both sides. Place the two notches of the pleats with the right sides together and pin them in place. You can find the direction of the pleats on the pattern piece. Secure the pleats at the hem, by stitching at 1 cm from the edge. We recommend leaving your pins in for now to ensure the pleats stay securely in place.
Pin the side seams of the sleeve with the right side together and stitch. Press open.
Fold the sleeve trims in half, right sides of the fabric together, and stitch the short side. Press the seam allowance open. Press the sleeve trims in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together. Fold back open and press 1,5 cm of one of the long sides to the wrong side.
Pin the long, unpressed side of the sleeve trim to the sleeve, right sides together. Make sure that the markings match. The side with the single marking corresponds to the back side of the sleeve (you can recognize the back side by the double markings on the sleeve head). Stitch all around and press the seam allowances towards the sleeve trim.
Fold the sleeve trim in place, all seam allowances disappear inside the sleeve trim. Pin the sleeve trim to the inside of the sleeve. Stitch in place at 5 mm next to the edge of the sleeve trim, through all layers. Work on the right side of the sleeve.
Pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings match. The single marking indicates the front, the double one the back. Divide the fabric evenly between the markings of the cap of the sleeve. Baste to avoid false pleats and stitch in place. Finish the edges with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.
Blouse hem: press the hem of the blouse 3 cm to the wrong side. Then press half of this allowance to the inside and stitch just next to the edge. Press.
Dress hem: press 1 cm of the hem to the wrong side. Then press another 3 cm to the wrong side and stitch just next to the edge. Press.
Belt for the dress: pin one side piece to each side of the center piece with the right sides together and stitch the short edges. Press open. Fold the belt in half lengthwise with the right sides together and pin all around. Stitch all sides, leaving a 5 cm opening in the middle to turn the belt. Trim the corners at the ends and turn the belt to the right side. Press. Close the opening by sewing by hand.
Give your new blouse or dress a nice press!
All done! We wish you a lot of fun with your new blouse or dress! Show your creation on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #atelierjupeLori or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’.
Got a taste for it? Have a look at www.atelierjupe.com to discover more patterns and our fabric collection.