Pippa, one of our very first patterns and a true wardrobe staple, is getting a well-deserved update! We're very excited that you're starting on your new Pippa dress, you'll love her!
Let's go!
Stitch the bust darts in the front. Fold the dart in half along the central line - right sides of the fabric together - matching up the markings at the side seam. Pin in place. Stitch the dart, starting from the edge of the fabric towards the point of the dart. Stitch off the edge of the fabric, don’t back tack the stitching at the point. Instead, tie the threads together with a double knot. Press the dart allowance down.
Finish the rounded edge of all pockets with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin one pocket to each front and back piece, right sides of the fabric together and markings matching. Stitch the side seam. Finish the side seams and shoulder seams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Press the pocket away from the front/back and stitch it to the seam allowance of front/ back, just next to the edge.
Option with wrap belt in side seam:
Fold the belt in half lengthwise with the right sides together and stitch one short side and the long side. Trim the corner of the stitched short side and turn the belt to the right side. Press nicely and repeat for the other belt.
Pin a belt with its open, short side at the side seam of the front between the markings, right sides together, and stitch in place at 1 cm from the edge. Make sure that the stitched seam of the belt is facing down.
All options:
Pin the side seams of front and back with the right sides together and stitch from the top down to the first marking of the pocket. Follow the shape of the pocket until the next marking and then continue the side seam. Press the seams open.
Pin the shoulder seams of front and back right sides together and stitch. Press open.
Finish the shoulder seams of the front and back facing with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin right sides together and stitch. Press the seams open. Finish the bottom of the facing with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Pin the facing to the front and back, right sides together and make sure the shoulder seams and markings match. Stitch all around.
Trim the seam allowances of the neckline and shoulder seams.
Finish all seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the facing. Stitch the seam allowances to the facing through all layers, at 2 mm from the stitching line.
Fold the facing in place and press.
All sleeves:
Finish the side seams of the sleeves with an overlock or by zigzagging and pin, right sides of the fabric together. Stitch and press open.
The short sleeve:
Finish the hem of the sleeves with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the hem 2 cm to the wrong side and stitch in place just next to the edge. Press nicely.
The puffed sleeve:
For the puffed sleeve you’ll need the pattern pieces for both the puffed sleeve (piece n° 6) and the short sleeve (piece n°5). The puffed sleeve is the outer sleeve, and the short sleeve serves as the sleeve lining.
Gather the hem of the puffed sleeve. Easestitch using the largest stitch on your sewing machine at 1,5 cm from the edge. Easestitch a second time at 1 cm. Then gather the cap of the sleeve in the same way between the two markings.
Pin the puffed sleeve to the sleeve lining, right sides together and make sure that the markings of both sleeve caps match. The single marking indicates the front, the double one the back.
Gather the hem of the puffed sleeve to match the hem of the sleeve lining. Stitch at 1,5 cm seam allowance. Remove the gathering threads.
Measure the circumference of your upper arm, just above your elbow and add 3 cm. Cut two pieces of elastic to this length.
Stitch the elastic to both seam allowances of the sleeve, at the wrong side of the sleeve. Make sure to only stitch it to the seam allowances. Mark the center of the elastic - the middle of the sleeve hem is already indicated with a marking. Stitch one end of the elastic to the seam allowance of the side seam. Stretch the elastic so the center marking of the elastic matches the center marking of the sleeve. Pin in place and stitch the elastic to the seam allowances, pulling the elastic while you sew. When you reach the center, pin the other end of the elastic to the seam allowance of the other side seam. Stretch the elastic again and stitch it in place until the side seam.
Turn the sleeve to the right side so the wrong sides of both sleeves are together. Gather the head of the puffed sleeve between the markings so it matches the cap of the sleeve lining. Pin all markings together and stitch the gathered sleeve cap at 1 cm of the edge.
The 4/5th sleeve:
Fold the sleeve trim in half lengthwise with the right sides together and stitch both short sides. Turn to the right side of the fabric and press.
Pin the unfinished side of the sleeve trim to the hem of the sleeve, right sides of the fabric together. The middle of the sleeve trim matches the side seam of the sleeve. The angled ends of the sleeve trim overlap about 1 cm. Stitch in place at 1,5 cm and finish with an overlock or by zigzagging. Fold down and press.
All options:
Pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings match. The single marking indicates the front, the double one the back. Divide the fabric evenly between the markings of the cap of the sleeve. Baste to avoid false pleats and stitch in place. For the puffed sleeve: remove the gathering threads. Finish the edges with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.
Hemming the dress: press 1 cm of the hem to the wrong side. Press another 3 cm to the wrong side and stitch just next to the edge.
Give your new dress a nice press!