We’re really happy you’re starting with our pattern Frankie!
Frankie is a trendy pair of trousers that sits a little below the waist and has wide legs. The back yoke and rounded pockets at the front, together with the topstitching, give this pattern a timeless jeans look. Frankie is at its best in medium weight fabrics, to make the most out of the relaxed cut of the pattern. If you roll up the trouser legs, you’ll get a fun, casual look! In short, Frankie is just a perfect day-to-day pair of trousers!
Let's get started on them!
Cut a piece of 2 cm off the shaped facing of the right front, parallel to the side, right as you would be wearing the trousers.
Place the inner pocket on the front, right sides of the fabric together and stitch the rounded pocket opening.
Trim the seam allowances and finish together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Fold the pocket to the wrong side of the front and press. Make sure the lining is hidden inside.
Topstitch along the rounded pocket opening, next to the edge, on the front. Topstitch a second time at 0,6 cm of your first topstitch.
Place the inner pocket and pocket opening piece with the right sides of the fabric together and pin the middle and bottom side. Finish the edges together with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Pin the pocket at the waist and side seam of the front. The sides of the pocket match with the markings at the waist and at the side seam. Stitch in place at 1 cm.
Pin the bottom of the back yoke at the top of the back, right sides together and stitch. Finish the seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Press towards the back. Topstitch the seam allowance to the back, right next to the edge and topstitch a second time at 0,6 cm of your first stitching.
Finish the sides and bottom of the back pockets with an overlock or by zigzagging. Fold 2,5 cm of the top to the wrong side of the fabric and then fold half of this seam allowance to the inside. Topstitch next to the edge and topstitch a second time at 0,6 cm of your first stitching.
Press the sides and bottom 1,5 cm to the wrong side of the pocket.
Place the top of the back pocket exactly at the markings on the back, at the right side. Stitch in place next to the edge and topstitch a second time at 0,6 cm of your first stitching.
Finish the shaped facing of the center front seam and crotch seam of both front pieces with an overlock or by zigzagging. Place both front pieces with the right sides together and make sure the markings at the waist and the marking threads match. Stitch the center front crotch seam from the marking thread to approximately 2 cm of the inside seam.
Open the zipper and place the right part of the zipper at 0,5 cm of the edge of the shaped facing of the right front, right sides together. The zip teeth should start at 1,5 cm below the waistline. It’s best to baste the zipper in place first, so it doesn’t move when stitching. Use the zipper foot of your sewing machine and stitch in the middle of the zipper tape till the marking thread. Fold the zipper and the fabric to the wrong side. You’ll notice you’re not folding the fabric at the center front marking, but at 1 cm beside it.
Close the zipper and place both front pieces with the right sides together and make sure the markings of the center front at the waist match exactly. Now place the left part of the zipper at the shaped facing of the left front, right sides together, and make sure that all pieces are neatly flat. The edge of the left zipper tape lies at about 1,2 cm of the edge of the shaped facing. Pin the left zipper in place and baste before opening it again. Stitch in the middle of the zipper tape with the zipper foot of your sewing machine.
Fold the fly facing in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and overlock the long and bottom side with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press.
Place the long, finished side of the fly facing at the edge of the shaped facing of the right front. Stitch in place in your previous stitching and use the zipper foot again.
Fold the shaped facing of the left front to the wrong side at the center front marking in the waist. Press. Open your zipper. Topstitch at the front following the shape of the shaped facing, at approximately 3 cm of the edge. Topstitch a second time at 0,6 cm around your previous stitching.
Close the zipper and sew with a few hand stitches the bottom of the fly facing at the shaped facing of the front.
Finish the crotch seam of the back with an overlock or by zigzagging. Place a back piece at a front piece, right sides together and stitch the side seams. Finish the side seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press towards the front. Repeat for the other leg.
Pin the inseam of front and back together and stitch. Finish the seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press towards the front. Repeat for the other leg.
Turn one of the trouser legs to the right side and slide it into the other trouser leg, so that the right sides of the fabric are together. Pin the crotch seam of the back until the part of the crotch seam of the front that you stitched in the beginning. Stitch the crotch seam. You can stitch this seam again if necessary, to reinforce the seam. Press the seam open.
It’s also an option to press the crotch seams towards the left leg, so you can topstitch next to the edge and a second time at 0,6 cm.
Pin a front left and right waistband to the back waistband, right sides together, and stitch the side seams. Do the same for the second waistband but make sure that this waistband is the mirror image of the first one. Press the seams open and press 1,5 cm of the bottom of the inside waistband to the wrong side.
Pin both waistbands right sides together and stitch the sides and the top. Start stitching at 1,5 cm from the bottom and also end at 1,5 cm, so you don’t stitch the seam allowance you already pressed. Trim the corners and turn to the right side. Press and make sure to keep the pressed seam allowance at the bottom of the inside waistband.
Pin the outside waistband to the waist of the trousers, right sides together and stitch.
Turn the waistband to the inside of the trousers and pin in place. Stitch next to the edge of the waistband all around it.
Press 1 cm of the seam to the wrong side. Press another 2 cm to the wrong side and stitch along the edge.
Make the belt loops: finish one of the long sides with an overlock or by zigzagging. Fold the unfinished long side 1 cm to the wrong side and press. Fold the other long side over the first one so you have one long ribbon of approximately 1,2 cm wide. Press. Stitch in place next to both long edges. Cut into 5 equal pieces of 7 cm each.
Fold and press 1 cm of top and bottom of each belt loop to the wrong side. Stitch two belt loops at the front, each one right next to the front pocket. Stitch a belt loop at the center back. Stitch two belt loops at the back, each at 4 cm of the side seams. The top of the belt loop aligns with the top of the waistband; the bottom of the loop is positioned at 1 cm below the waistband.
Make the buttonhole at the indicated marking on the left waistband and sew the button at the right waistband.
Give your trousers a nice press.
All done! Wow, looking good! Enjoy your new trousers!