The Blake trousers are the perfect combination of classic elegance and modern comfort! With wide legs, a flattering mid-rise waist, and a double pleat at the front, Blake offers you the ideal pattern for both chic occasions and everyday outfits!
Cut a strip of 2,5 cm off the shaped facing of the left front, parallel to the side, left as you would be wearing the trousers.
Make the pleats in the front. Align the two notches and markings with the right sides of the fabric together. Sew the pleat in place from the waist to the marking point, which is a total of 6 cm. Do the same for the second pleat. Press the pleats on the inside towards the center front and sew in place at the top, 1 cm from the edge, parallel to the waist.
Attach a piece of interfacing 2 cm wide at the diagonal pocket opening of the front pocket, at the wrong side of the front.
Place the inner pocket on the front, right sides of the fabric together and stitch the pocket opening. Finish the seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Press the seams towards the pocket and stitch all seam allowances to the pocket at 2 mm from the stitching line.
Pin the inner pocket and pocket opening piece with the right sides of the fabric together and stitch the rounded side. Finish the edges together with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Pin the pocket at the waist and side seam of the front. Stitch in place at 1 cm parallel to the side seam and waist.
Finish the shaped facing of the center front seam as well as the crotch seam of both front pieces with an overlock or by zigzagging. Place both front pieces with the right sides together and make sure the markings at the waist and the marking threads match. Stitch the center front seam from the marking thread to approximately 2 cm from the inside leg seam.
Open the zipper and place the left part of the zipper at 0,5 cm from the edge of the shaped facing of the left front, right sides together. The zip teeth should start at 1,5 cm below the waistline. It’s best to baste the zipper in place first, so it doesn’t move when stitching. Use the zipper foot of your sewing machine and stitch in the middle of the zipper tape till the marking thread.
Fold the zipper and the fabric to the wrong side. You’ll notice you’re not folding the fabric at the center front marking, but at about 0,5 cm beside it.
Close the zipper and place both front pieces with the right sides together and make sure the markings of the center front at the waist match exactly. Now place the right part of the zipper on the shaped facing of the right front, right sides together, and make sure that all pieces are neatly flat. Pin the right part in place and baste before opening it again. Stitch in the middle of the zipper tape with the zipper foot of your sewing machine.
Fold the fly facing in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch the bottom of the fly facing. Turn to the right side and press. Finish the long side with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Place the long, finished side of the fly facing at the edge of the shaped facing on the right side of the left front. Stitch in place in your previous stitching and use the zipper foot again.
Fold the shaped facing of the right front to the wrong side at the center front marking in the waist. Press. Open your zipper. Topstitch at the front following the shape of the shaped facing, at approximately 3 cm from the edge. Fold the facing at the inside to the side so you don’t stitch it along.
Close the zipper and sew with a few hand stitches the bottom of the fly facing to the shaped facing of the front, inside the trousers.
Stitch the back darts. Fold the dart in half along the central line - right sides of the fabric together - matching up the markings in the waist. Pin in place. Stitch the dart, starting from the edge of the fabric - back tack at the beginning - and towards the point of the dart. Stitch off the edge of the fabric, don’t back tack the stitching at the point. Instead, tie the threads together with a double knot. Press the dart allowance towards the center back.
Finish the side seams and inseams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging, as well as the back crotch seam.
Place a back piece at a front piece, right sides together and stitch the side seams. Press the seams open.
Pin the inseam of front and back, right sides together and stitch. Press the seams open. Repeat for the other leg.
Turn one of the trouser legs to the right side and slide it into the other trouser leg, so that the right sides of the fabric are together. Pin the crotch seam of the back until the part of the crotch seam that you’ve already stitched. Stitch the crotch seam. You can stitch this seam again if necessary, to reinforce it. Press the seam open.
Pin a front left and front right waistband to the back waistband, right sides together, and stitch the side seams. Do the same for the second waistband but make sure that this waistband is the mirror image of the first one.
Press the seams open and press about 1 cm of the bottom of the waistband facing to the wrong side.
Pin both waistbands right sides together and stitch the sides and the top. Start stitching at 1 cm from the bottom and also end at 1 cm, so you don’t stitch the seam allowance you already pressed.
Trim the corners and turn to the right side. Press and make sure to keep the pre-pressed seam allowance at the bottom of the waistband facing.
Press the seam allowances towards the waistband facing and stitch just next to the seam, at 2 mm from the stitching line, stitching all seam allowances to the waistband facing. Begin and end as far as you can.
Pin the outside waistband to the waist of the trousers, right sides together and stitch. Press all seam allowances towards the waistband.
Fold the waistband in place and pin the waistband facing to the trousers. Make sure all seam allowances are inside the waistband.
Stitch the waistband to the trousers by stitching exactly in the ditch of trousers and waistband. Work on the right side of the trousers.
Press 1 cm of the hem to the wrong side.
Press another 3 cm to the wrong side and stitch along the edge.
You can finish the trousers with a visible button or with a hook at the inside, so that no fastening is visible. The markings at the waistbands mark the position of the hook.
For the hook: sew both parts of the hook onto the waistbands. Sew an additional snap button about two centimeters next to the hook, as shown in the drawing. This prevents the hook from pulling on the waistband.
For the button: Make the buttonhole in the right waistband and sew the button on the left waistband.
Give your trousers a nice press.
All done! We wish you a lot of fun with your new trousers! Show your creation on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #atelierjupeBlake or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’.
Got a taste for it? Have a look at www.atelierjupe.com to discover more patterns and our fabric collection.