Tutorial Julia sweater

Warm up for winter with our pattern Julia! 

Julia is thé pattern for a cosy winter sweater. Or make her one size bigger and wear her as a coat! The front of Julia is cut vertically and horizontally for a playful effect, which also makes it a perfect pattern for color blocking. The pockets are incorporated in the horizontal seam. The sweater has slight drop-off shoulders, long sleeves and a stand-up collar. The contrasting button placket with snaps gives Julia that extra touch. Both the sleeves and sweater are fringed at the bottom by an elasticated hem. 

In the mood to make your own Julia sweater? Then let's go!

 

Pin the dividing seam of the front middle and side with the right sides together and stitch.

Finish the edges with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press towards the side piece. 

Finish the shoulder seams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin and stitch in place, right sides of the fabric together. Press.

Press just over a centimeter of the bottom of the inner collar to the wrong side. Pin both collar pieces with the right sides together.

Stitch the top. 

Pin the outside collar to the neckline of front and back, right sides together and stitch. 

Press the seam allowances towards the collar. 

Fold the button placket in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch the upper short side. Trim the corner and turn to the right side of the fabric. Press. 

 

Pin one side of the unfinished edge of the button placket at the front middle, right sides together. Start at the top of the button placket and stitch all the way down to the bottom of the front middle. 

Fold the inside collar over the inside of the button placket (the other unfinished edge) with the right sides together. The centimeter that you pressed before has to stay folded to the wrong side and will be stitched along. Pin or baste securely. Stitch the collar to the button placket. 

Trim the seam allowance of the fabric over the length of the button placket as well as the corner of the button placket at the collar. 

 

Fold the button placket and collar to the right side. Press just over a centimeter of the seam allowance of the button placket that isn’t stitched yet to the wrong side. Continue to pin the button placket to the front and stitch in place in the ditch.

 

If your fabric allows it, then press the seam allowances of the collars towards the inside collar and understitch all seam allowances to this collar at 2 mm from the stitching line. Start and end as far as you can. 

Pin the bottom of the inside collar at the sweater, all seam allowances are inside the collar. Stitch the collars together by stitching exactly in the ditch of collar and sweater. Work on the right side of the sweater. 

 

Place the bottom of the right button placket onto the left placket (right and left when you would be wearing the sweater).

Stitch in place at 1 cm parallel to the edge.

Pin the top front to the bottom front, right sides together. Make sure the pockets are placed correctly together and that all the markings match. Start by stitching the diagonal seam of the pockets from the first marking at the side seam to the second marking. This is only a few centimeters. 

 

Stitch the bottom and side of the pocket until the marking. Then stitch the diagonal seam. Start at the marking that indicates the beginning of the pocket opening and stitch until the marking that indicates the beginning of the front middle. 

Do the same at the other side of the front.

Only the middle part below the button placket is still open now. Snip into the seam allowance of the front top at the markings where you stopped stitching, so you can put the seams of top and bottom front nicely together. Make sure the middle marking of button placket and front match. Stitch from marking to marking. 

 

Finish all seams of the previous steps together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam down and also press the pocket opening. 

Stitch the pockets in place at 1 cm from the side seam.

Finish the side seams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin and stitch the side seams with the right sides together. Press towards the back. 

Finish the side seams of the sleeves with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin and stitch the side seams of the sleeve, right sides together and press open. 

Pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings match. The single marking indicates the front, the double one the back. Divide the fabric evenly between the markings of the cap of the sleeve. Finish the edges together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve. 

Finish the hem of front and back and of the sleeves. 

Press the hem of the sweater 5 cm to the wrong side and stitch at 1 cm from the edge. Leave an opening of about 5 cm to insert the elastic. 

Press the hem of the sleeves 4 cm to the wrong side and stitch at 1 cm from the edge. Leave an opening of about 4 cm to insert the elastic. 

Insert the elastic with a safety pin through the hem of the sweater and stitch both ends together. Divide the fabric evenly over the entire length and close the opening. Repeat for the sleeves. 

Attach the press buttons at the indicated markings on the button placket.

 

All done!

We wish you a lot of fun with your new sweater! Show your creation on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #atelierjupeJulia or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’. 

Got a taste for it? Have a look at www.atelierjupe.com to discover more patterns and our fabric collection. 


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