In the mood for summer and looking for a fun and easy sewing project? The Billie & Finn pattern includes a top and shorts perfect for sunny days or your well-deserved holiday in the sun!
In this tutorial, we'll be sewing the Finn shorts. Finn features topstitched pockets and an elasticated waistband. Additionally, you have the option to thread the elastic only through the back, allowing the front waistband to remain flat. If you prefer, you can also add a cuff at the hem for a more polished appearance. However, Finn can be sewn just as easily without these additional details for a quick and straightforward project!
(Are you into making the Billie top as well? There's a separate tutorial available for Billie!)
So, let's start sewing Finn!
The pockets
Attach a piece of interfacing of 2 cm wide at the diagonal pocket opening of the pocket.
Press 1 cm of the pocket opening to the wrong side. Press another 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch in place just next to the edge.
Finish the longest and bottom side with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press 1,5 cm of these sides to the wrong side.
Pin or baste the pocket to the front at the markings on top and side seam. Topstitch the longest side and bottom in place just next to the edge.
Stitch the top and side of the pocket at 1 cm parallel to the edge.
The shorts
Finish the side seams and inseams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin and stitch the side seams and inseams. Press open.
Turn one of the trouser legs to the right side and slide it into the other trouser leg, right sides of the fabric together. Pin and stitch the crotch seam.
Finish both seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Press all seam allowances towards the left trouser leg and turn the shorts to the right side.
Pin the interfaced front and back waistband right sides together and stitch the short sides. Press open. Repeat for the pieces that aren’t interfaced, the waistband facing.
Press a bit more than 1 cm of the bottom of the waistband facing to the wrong side.
Slide one waistband in the other one, right sides together and pin in place at the top.
Stitch all the way around.
Press the seam allowances towards the waistband facing and stitch all seam allowances to the waistband facing at 2 mm from the stitching line.
Press the top of the waistbands, wrong sides together.
Slide the outer waistband over the shorts, right sides together. Pin and stitch all around. Press the seam allowances towards the waistband. Make sure that the markings of front and back and the side seams match.
Fold the waistband in place and pin the waistband facing to the shorts. All the seam allowances and the pressed centimeter disappear inside the waistband.
Stitch the waistband facing to the shorts by stitching exactly in the ditch of short and waistband. Work on the right side of the shorts. Leave an opening of about 5 cm in the back next to the right side seam to insert the elastic.
Waistband with the elastic all around
Pull the elastic with a safety pin through the opening at the right side seam and pull all around. Stitch both ends of the elastic together. Divide the fabric evenly over the entire length of the waistband. Close the opening while stitching again in the ditch.
Waistband with elastic only in the back
Pull the elastic with a safety pin through the opening at the right side seam and pull all the way through the front waistband. Then pull the elastic past the left side seam and through the back waistband until about 1,5 cm of the end of the elastic remains in the front waistband. Attach the elastic by stitching exactly in the left side seam of the waistband. Work on the right side of the shorts.
Pull the elastic through the back waistband until the opening and pull it out so you can remove the safety pin. The back waistband is now gathered. The front waistband is not gathered, there is no elastic anymore. Put the end of the elastic back in the waistband and pull the end 1,5 cm past the right side seam. Attach the elastic by stitching exactly in the right side seam of the waistband. Work on the right side of the shorts. Close the opening of the waistband.
The cuffs
Pin the short sides of the cuff right sides together and stitch.
Finish the bottom of the cuff with an overlock or by zigzagging. The bottom is the long side with the marking. Fold the cuff on the indicated markings and press, wrong sides of the fabric together.
In our example, we cut 1,5 cm off the hem before attaching the cuff. The length of the shorts is of course a personal preference.
Pin the top of the cuff to the hem of the shorts, right sides together and stitch all around at 1,5 cm.
Fold the cuff in place and pin the bottom of the cuff to the inside of the shorts. The wrong sides of the cuff and shorts are together.
Stitch the cuff all around. Work on the right side of the shorts. Fold the top of the cuff to the side so the seam of the shorts and cuff is visible. Stitch the cuff in place by stitching just above the seam. Fold the cuff back in place and press.
The shorts without cuff
Press the hem 3 cm to the wrong side. Then press 1,5 cm of this hem to the inside and stitch all around, just next to the edge.
All done!
We wish you a lot of fun with your new shorts! Show your creation on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #atelierjupeFinn or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’.
Got a taste for it? Have a look at www.atelierjupe.com to discover more patterns and our fabric collection.