Good to see you’re starting on your new Hannah blouse!
Hannah is a pattern for a blouse that you can make in different versions to create your own unique style! For Hannah, you have two options for the front: cut with a straight line or in a curved line, for a more romantic look. The wide gathered sleeves are perfect for a sunny day off, while a blouse with the longer sleeves can be combined with a cardigan for more chilly days. There’s an optional tie for the neckline to add detail, and optional piping for a neat finish around the yoke seams on the front and back. We launched this pattern for Simply Sewing magazine in the UK, but only with the straight cut front. This version of the pattern has an extra optional front for more sewing fun!
Let's go!
Wish to add the ribbon to the front? Press the ribbon in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Fold open and press half of each side lengthwise to the inside again. Pin in place and fold one of the ends 1,5 cm to the inside, for a nice finishing. Topstitch next to the edge over the entire length. Put a piece of pattern paper under the fabric at the beginning and end of the ribbons to avoid your sewing machine ‘eating’ them.
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Place two upper fronts right sides together and stitch the center front seam. Do the same for the other two upper front pieces. If you’re adding the ribbons to the blouse, then add a ribbon in between the two upper fronts at 1,5 cm from the neckline, for both right and left front. The unfinished side of the ribbon lays together with the unfinished center front seam. Stitch in place and press the seams open.
Place the two upper fronts with the right sides together and make sure that the center seams you just stitched, are placed on top of eachother. Stitch this seam in the ditch from the bottom upwards over a length of about 3 to 4 cm.
Fold the two upper fronts, that you first stitched together, with the right sides together and stitch the neckline.
Trim the corners (make sure your stitchings are still secured) and the seam allowance of the neckline. Fold to the right side. Press. Do the same for the other two upper front pieces.
Finish the bottom of the back facing with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin the back facing to the upper back piece, right sides of the fabric together and stitch the neckline. Finish both seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Topstitch the seam allowance to the back facing just next to the edge. Trim the seam allowance and press.
Fold one of the upper fronts and one side of the upper back with facing open. Pin the shoulder seams, right sides together: place the shoulder seam of the inner front to the shoulder seam of the back facing; place the shoulder seam of the outer front to the shoulder seam of the back. Stitch in place and do the same for the other upper front.
Press the seam allowance open and trim it at the shoulder-neckline point.
Fold back to the right side and press.
If you wish to add piping to the blouse, then pin the piping all around the upper front and back. Start pinning at the center back and place the unfinished side of the piping at the unfinished side of the fabric. Make sure that the ribbon in the piping, where you’ll be stitching just next to, is at 1,5 cm of the edge. Snip in the piping at every corner, just until the stitching, so you can make a nice corner. Baste all around and stitch in place just next to the ribbon. Remove your basting thread.
Finish the shoulder seams of the side fronts and side back pieces with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin the shoulders seams of the side pieces, right sides of the fabric together and stitch. Press the seams open.
Pin the side pieces to the upper front and back, right sides of the fabric together and stitch in place. If you’ve added piping, then make sure to stitch just next to the ribbon or in your previous stitching. You can baste this beforehand. Finish the seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging and press towards the side pieces.
Gather the top of the bottom front between the markings. Easestitch using the largest stitch on your sewing machine at 1,5 cm from the edge. Easestitch a second time at 1 cm from the edge. Gather the fabric.
Pin the bottom front to the upper part of the front, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings match and divide your gather nicely between these markings. Stitch in place. If you added piping, then make sure to stitch just next to the ribbon or in your previous stitching. You can baste this beforehand. Finish the seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging and press upwards.
Do the same for the back.
Finish the side seams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin the front to the back, right sides together and stitch the side seams. Press open.
The gathered and long sleeve:
Finish the side seams of the sleeves with an overlock or by zigzagging and pin together, right sides of the fabric together. Stitch the side seams and press them open. Press the hem of the sleeve 1,5 cm to the wrong side. Then press another 1,5 cm and stitch all around.
The gathered sleeve:
Finish the side seams of the gathered sleeve with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin the sides seams with the right sides of the fabric together and stitch. Press the seam open. Press the hem 1,5 cm to the wrong side. Then press another 1,5 cm to the wrong side and stitch all around.
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Press the top of the gathered sleeve 1 cm to the wrong side and stitch right next to the fold line. Trim the seam allowance until your stitching line and fold another 0,5 cm to the wrong side. Stitch in place. Gather this side in the same way you did before.
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Pin the top of the gathered sleeve at the bottom of the short sleeve, wrong side of the gathered sleeve on the right side of the short sleeve. Make sure that the top of the gathered sleeve is placed 1 cm above the hem stitching line of the short sleeve. Divide the gather so it fits on the short sleeve and stitch in place at 0,5 cm of the top of the gathered sleeve.
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The gathered and long sleeve:
Pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides of the fabric together. Make sure the markings match. The single marking indicates the front, the double one the back. Divide the fabric evenly between the markings of the cap of the sleeve. Baste to avoid false pleats and stitch in place. Finish the edges with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.
Press the hem of the blouse 1 cm to the wrong side. Then press another 2 cm and stitch all around. Give your blouse a nice press.
We wish you a lot of fun with your new blouse! Show your creation on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #atelierjupeHannah or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’.