Glad to see you're starting on your own, fabulous Martha dress!
The instructions below show pictures in stead of drawings to facilitate the sewing process!
Finish the center front seams of both fronts with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin the two front pieces right sides together and stitch from the neckline to the marking. Don’t forget to backstitch. Then sew the remaining part of the center front using the longest stitch on your sewing machine, without backstitching. If you are not making a slit, stitch the entire length using a regular stitch. Press the seam open.
Dress with patch pockets:
Finish the sides and bottom of the pocket with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press 1 cm of the top of the pocket to the wrong side. Press another 3 cm to the wrong side and stitch in place close to the edge.
Press 1,5 cm of the bottom and sides to the wrong side of the pocket. Pin the top of the pocket at the two markings on the front. Pin or baste in place to the dress and stitch the sides and bottom close to the edge.
Finish the shoulder seams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging. Place the right sides of the fabric together and stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seams open.
Pin and stitch the side seams with the right sides together. Trim the curves of the armholes, so the seams won’t pull the fabric. Finish the side seams together with an overlock or by zigzagging. Press towards the front.
Dress with inseam pockets:
Finish the rounded edge of all pockets with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin a pocket to each side of front and back, right sides of the fabric together and markings matching. Stitch the side seam. Finish the side seams and shoulder seams of front and back with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Press the pocket away from the front and back and stitch it to the seam allowance of front and back, just next to the edge.
Pin the side seams of front and back with the right sides together and stitch from the top down to the first marking of the pocket. Follow the shape of the pocket until the next marking and then continue the side seam. Trim the curves at the armholes to reduce the fabric pulling. Press the seams open.
Pin the shoulder seams of front and back with the right sides together and stitch. Press open.
All options:
Finish the shoulder seams of the front and back facing with an overlock or by zigzagging. Pin right sides together and stitch. Press the seam open. Finish the bottom of the facing with an overlock or by zigzagging.
Pin the facing to the front and back of the dress, right sides together and make sure the shoulder seams match. Also make sure that the center front of the front and front facing are matched exactly. For a nice V-shape of the neckline, baste the stitching line first.
Turn the dress inside out. Stitch all around. When you reach the point of the V-neck, you can use the center front seam of the dress to see exactly where to turn the fabric.
Cut the V-neck until your stitching line, making sure to cut just next to the center front seam stitching. For heavier fabrics, it’s best to make a few small snips in the seam allowance just next to the V. Trim the curves of the shoulders and back as well. Overlock all seams together or finish with a zigzag.
Press the seam allowances towards the facing. Stitch the seam allowances to the facing through all layers, at 2 mm from the stitching line. Fold the facing in place and press.
Fold the sleeve trims in half with the short sides together - right sides of the fabric together - and stitch the short side. Press the seam allowance open.
Press the sleeve trims in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together. Fold back open and press 1 cm of one of the long sides to the wrong side. Make sure to press the opposite long side of the other sleeve trim, so that it mirrors the first one.
Pin the seam allowance of the sleeve trim that isn’t pressed, to the armhole of the dress, right sides of the fabric together and markings matching. The markings need to match the shoulder seam and the marking on the back. Stitch and press the seam allowance towards the sleeve trim.
Now fold the sleeve trim to the inside at the foldline and pin. Stitch the sleeve trim in place by stitching exactly in the ditch of sleeve trim and dress. Work on the right side of the dress.
Using a seam ripper, carefully open about 8 cm of the center front seam at the hem. Press 1 cm of the hem to the wrong side. Then fold 3 cm of the hem to the right side and stitch in place 1,5 cm parallel to the center front seam. Make sure the center front seam is folded open.
Next, turn the corner to the right side. Press 3 cm of the hem to the wrong side and stitch all around close to the edge. Stitch the seam allowance of the slit as well, by stitching approximately 1 cm around the slit. Use a seam ripper to open the seam of the slit (the part that was stitched with a long stitch).
Are you making the dress without the slit? Press 1 cm of the hem to the wrong side. Press another 3 cm to the wrong side and stitch all around just next to the edge.
Pin the sides of the belt to the center belt, right sides together, and stitch the short ends. Press the seams open.
Fold the belt in half lengthwise with the right sides together and pin all around. Stitch, but leave an opening at the center to turn the belt. Trim the corners and turn the belt to the right side. Gently push out the corners. For heavier fabrics like cotton, you can use a pin to carefully pull out the points from the right side. Press neatly flat. Handstitch the opening closed.
Give your new dress a nice press!
All done! We wish you a lot of fun with your new dress! Show your creation on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #atelierjupeMartha or share it in our Facebook group ‘Atelier Jupe - Create & Share’.